Manufacture of boots and shoes



UNITED sTATEs rgTnNT onirica.

L. AND S. B. HOLDEN, OF VOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOIIS TO THEMSELVES,AND J. C. SEELYE, OF EAST CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS.

MANUFACTURE OF BOGTS AND SHOES.

Specication forming part of Letters Patent No. 31,929, dated April 2,1861; Ressued December 27, 1864, Nos. 1,841 and 1,842.

ful Improvement in the Manufacture of Shoes and Boots; and we do herebydeclare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description ofthe same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming'.

part of this specification.

Our invention consists in an improved mode of preparing` the sole andupper for sewing, whereby the seam is brought entirely on the outside ofthe shoe or boot in the sewing operation, but if the Shoe or boot beturned the seam will be brought entirely on the inside thereof. Theespecialobject of this mode of prepa-ring the sole and upper is toafford greater convenience for sewing them together by a sewing machinethan is aiforded bythe common arrangementof the parts.

Figure l, in the drawing represents a longitudinal section of a sole andupper prepared and lasted for sewing. Fig. 2, is a transverse section ofthe same. Fig. 3, is a transverse section of the sole before it isapplied to the upper. Fig. 4, is a longitudinal section of the shoeafter it has been lasted on the finishing last. Fig. 5, is a transversesection of the same. Fig. G, is a transverse sectional View illustratingthe mode in which the sewing together of the sole and upper is performedby a machine.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the severalfigures.

A, represents the sole made of ordinary sole leather or other suitableflexible substance. This after being cut out to the proper form has anotch a, see Fig. 3, cut all around the inner side near the margin as inordinary t channel work to form the channel c, through which thestitches are made in sewing the upper to the sole. The marginal portiond, of the sole outside of the notch a, is then turned over toward theouter side of the sole z'. e., the side which is to be outward when theshoe orboot is finished, and by this means the two portions c, and (Z,are caused to stand out in opposite directions at right angles orthereabout to the body of the sole as shown in Figs. l, and 2. The upperB, having been closed is now arranged inside out and applied to the soleas shown in the last mentioned figures, the outer face of the sole beingtoward the inside of the upper. and the channel o, are then temporarilyunited by stitching over their edges by hand with a small thread Z), andthe shoe so far formed is lasted on a last C, which has its sole as muchsmaller than the sole of the shoe as to permit the whole of the portion(l, to turn over the sides of the last as shown i-n Figs. l, and 2. Theshoe `now in the condition represented in vthe last mentioned figures,and in Fig. 6, is ready for sewing by the sewing machine, by which thesole and upper are to be permanently united, the channel c, and marginalportion of the upper being close together and standing out from the soleat right angles or nearly so to the principal portion of the facethereof in such a manner as to enable them to be sewn through andthrough either by a sewing` machine or by hand without any difficulty,rboth sides of the seam being presented on the outside of the shoe.

In sewing by a machine the shoe is held in the position shown in Fig. 6,in which e, is the bed or plate on which the work rests, f, is thepresser, g, is the needle bar and n, the needle. The seam is made quiteclose to the line in which the channel c, is turned back, as shown inFig. 6, in which The upper and in Figs. el, and 5, z', 2', represent thestitches by which the sole and upper are permanently united. In order tomake plenty of room for the needle fbar of the sewing machine the soleof the last C, is made concave.

W'hen the sewing is finished the shoe is removed from the last C, turnedand then lasted upon the wider finishing last D, which is similarlyproportioned to the lasts commonly used and the channel c, then laysback toward the middle of the sole and close against the inside thereofas shown in Figs. 4f, and 5. A

What we claim as our invention and desire to secure by Letters Patent;is,

seam on theJ outside of the Work While the sewing is being performed.

LUTHER HOLDEN. STOUGHTON B. HOLDEN.

Witnesses WM. A. HASLAM, R. S. DIMPSEY.

